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Travelling through the Cotswolds quickly feels like travelling back in time. The region in the heart of England is known for its rolling hills, vast sheep pastures, lovingly tended gardens and honey-coloured limestone villages. Everything seems a little quieter, decelerated - almost like something out of a storybook.
I am particularly fond of one of these villages: Stow-on-the-Wold. A place with a lot of history, typical English charm - and a little secret that will delight fans of fantasy literature.
The Cotswolds - where England is at its most English
The Cotswolds are considered the epitome of rural England - and with good reason. The region stretches across five counties (including Gloucestershire, Oxfordshire and Warwickshire) and has been recognised as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) - the UK's equivalent of a nature park - for its scenic beauty.
Typical for the Cotswolds are:
- rolling hills (the "wolds"),
- kilometres of dry stone walls that frame the pastures,
- old sheep tracks and cart tracks,
- and the famous houses made of the warm, golden-coloured limestone that is quarried in the region.
In the Middle Ages, the area was very prosperous thanks to the wool trade. The "Cotswold Lions" - a local breed of sheep with particularly fine wool - were prized throughout Europe. The wealth of that time is still reflected today in the magnificent churches and spacious market squares of many villages.
Typical Cotswold villages such as Bourton-on-the-Water, Bibury, Chipping Campden and Broadway attract visitors from all over the world every year. And yet there are always quiet corners, enchanted gardens and old-established pubs where you are almost alone - especially if you are travelling away from the main season.
Stow-on-the-Wold - at the top of the hill
Stow-on-the-Wold is one of these picture-book villages and, as the name suggests, it is situated high up on a hill ("wold" means highland). Stow has been an important marketplace since the Middle Ages. You can still sense this past today: the extensive market square, lined with stone houses and antique shops, was once the scene of large cattle markets - sometimes with up to 20,000 sheep!
Stow is cosy and lively at the same time: Cafés, small galleries, quaint pubs and charming accommodation characterise the townscape. And then there is another place that deserves special attention...
A door straight out of a fairy tale
On the north side of the church St Edward'sSomewhat hidden and easily overlooked, there is a door that looks as if it doesn't quite belong in our world. The thick wooden beams are framed on the right and left by ancient yew trees, whose roots seem to merge with the stone of the church. Standing in front of it, you quickly get the feeling that it could open to another world at any moment.
It was precisely this impression that inspired many - and perhaps also J.R.R. Tolkienthe famous author of The Hobbitand The Lord of the Rings. Tolkien lived in Oxford, very close to the Cotswolds, and often travelled through the region. It is thought that this door may have served as a model for the 'Gates of Moria' - a mysterious entrance in his famous books.
Is that true? We don't know for sure. But the resemblance is striking - and the idea that this peaceful place could be part of such a literary story makes it all the more appealing.
A place to dream
Stow-on-the-Wold is not only a picturesque village, but also a place full of stories - both real and imagined. Perhaps it's the special atmosphere, the silence, the history that can be felt everywhere here. Or maybe it's the door that looks like it leads straight into an adventure.
My tip for your visit:
Take your time for a stroll through the town. Discover small alleyways, browse in the antique shops, treat yourself to a cream tea in the tearoom or an ale in the pub - and make a detour to St Edward's Church. You'll find the famous door at the back. And who knows: you might hear faint whispers from another world.
